News and Opinion from Sisters, Oregon

Sisters woman explores Australasia

Eloise Mynatt (second from right) and friends on the Ghan Train. Photo provided

Eloise Mynatt is at home following a 27-day trip to New Guinea and Australia.

She and her party of eight arrived in Port Moresby, Papua, New Guinea. From there they flew to Tarus on a little four-seater prop plane, where they were royally welcomed with greetings from the local people, festooned for the occasion with painted faces, feathered headdresses and their best warrior spears.

Their accommodations were superb at the luxurious Ambua Lodge, elevation 7,000 feet.

This was in notable contrast to the villages they visited on their day trips. Mynatt reports that there are few Western influences, though there are churches of every denomination on just about every corner. At one they witnessed a funeral procession as a crowd of very vocal mourners escorted a pink casket in a pickup truck.

The hill country is home to a wig-making school and the Wig Master holds a place of prominence in his community. His apprentices work diligently, creating each piece by hand and using their own hair. It is a two-year commitment and one taken very seriously.

The men have several wives and offspring; however, they do not live with them. They visit with them only in the afternoons and there are no overnights.

Though clan wars were over 30 years ago when the villages came to an understanding, there are disputes. No guns are allowed, however. Differences are settled with bow and arrow. Mynatt told of one man's being shot in the arm while she was there, in an argument over the price of his bride.

Sweet potatoes are the major crop. Pigs are a staple there as well, and it was not at all unusual to see them on leashes on their way to dinner.

The visitors then flew to Kasiwari Lodge on the Kasiwari River. The village people love coming out to watch the planes arrive and depart so there was a big sendoff.

Villages line the river and are traversed by dugout canoes. Mynatt reports the men wore loincloths of sorts and had broad leaves placed with great discretion over their posteriors. The women wore sarongs from the waist down, while the little kids, some only about three years old, ran in the buff because they were in and out of the water all day.

"They were even paddling the dugout canoes," she said.

The travelers flew back to Port Moresby and from there to Sydney, Australia. In Cairns they explored the Great Barrier Reef by large catamaran.

"The coral was incredible. We saw sea turtles and this gigantic black-lipped clam, which had chartreuse along its lips," Mynatt said, still obviously amazed at the incredible beauty.

Cape Tribulation and hikes in the rainforest country were next on the itinerary. The water was filled with crocodiles. In certain months of the year, there are also jellyfish, one type with a fatal sting.

In the Outback, they visited Alice Springs, only now there is no spring -- just dry dust.

Mynatt and her group rode the Ghan Train on its famous overnight trip. Guests' accommodations have their own bath and the dining car offers five-star cuisine. It is a 19-hour journey through terrain that Mynatt said resembles high desert. The camels and kangaroos are visible early in the morning. Final destination is Adelaide, a lovely city, Mynatt said.

The group rode the ferry to Kangaroo Island where they saw Koala bears and kangaroos. Lunch was in the national park and while they were being served they noticed a male 'roo peeking in the window. They toured the grounds and saw wallabies and a variety of birds.

Then they set off to Tasmania and Holbert. This was the first place the British brought their convicts. Predictably, the prison guards settled here and became great Britannic influences on the culture.

Melbourne, a very cosmopolitan city known for its live theater, was the last destination before flying back to Sydney to depart for the United States.

 

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