Alder Springs hike a study in contrasting ecosystems

Very close to Sisters, there's an interesting - and nearly all-season - trail that offers some unusual opportunities.  There will be no snow banks to clamber over, but the Alder Springs hike is not for everyone. In fact, Crooked River Grassland officials have designated it as "Most Difficult."

In reality, it's not all that bad. The problem, however, is that the hike into the deep canyon is all downhill. That means you'd better be in good shape if you want to get back out. There are some rough spots in the well-marked trail and more than a few big rocks to step around or over.

The trail begins on a dry, desolate ridge above Whychus Creek, where bitterbrush, sage and juniper eke out a meager existence. During the first mile of the descent into the canyon, the ecosystem undergoes a radical transformation.

The change is gradual but, as the trail goes deeper into the canyon, everything becomes greener. Grass appears and the junipers give way to giant ponderosa pines. Wildflowers are in abundance. Flowers you might see include arrowleaf balsamroot, yarrow, current, lupine, asters, Oregon sunshine, wild rose, sulphur buckwheat, narrow-leaved phacelia, and many more.

Alder Springs bursts forth from beneath a large rock outcropping below the ridge, where a crack in the volcanic basalt layer provides an outlet for the waters seeping down from the Cascade Range. Even in dry years, the springs provide a recharge of very cold water to the lower reaches of Whychus Creek.

As you descend the trail above the Alder Springs outflow, you'll soon have the opportunity to learn just how cold that water is. If you intend to go all the way to the mouth of the creek, where it joins the Deschutes River, you'll have to ford the creek at the bottom of the canyon about a mile and a half from the trailhead.

When approaching the fast-flowing stream, your first reaction is likely to be one of appreciation for the astonishingly lush vegetation that would have been unthinkable back where you left your car. Waist-high green grass and thriving deciduous trees - such as alder, of course - line the stream banks and carpet the canyon floor.

The ford is a place where a little advance planning comes in handy. I recommend that you carry river sandals or water shoes in your backpack, and some hikers choose to bring poles or walking sticks to maintain balance in the swift current. The stream is a good thirty to forty feet across and about eighteen inches deep. The bottom is covered with small rocks but is relatively smooth.

After the ford, we left our water shoes hanging in an alder and continued downstream for about another mile and a half to a serene open space by some large boulders beside the Deschutes River. It's a perfect place for lunch. The mouth of Whychus Creek is hidden behind a screen of alders just upstream of this site. If you don't look for it, you're likely to miss the fact that you're on the Deschutes at that point.

To tell when you're approaching the site, keep your eyes on the skyline across the water. A beautiful, mammoth rock formation with a natural window looms over the confluence of the two streams.

The wisdom of planning ahead for the ford was plainly illustrated on our return trip. As we were drying our feet (a small towel is a good idea, too) and putting our hiking boots back on, another party on its way down reached the creek. "Where do we cross," they asked. We had to tell them, "Right here." They weren't prepared.

The round trip was about six miles and took four hours.

To get there, take Highway 126 east from Sisters about six miles to Holmes Road. Turn left and stay on Holmes Road for about seven miles, and turn left again onto Road 6360. Watch for cattle in the road after the cattle guard at the top of the hill. Stay on the gravel road for a little more than three miles to a right onto Road 6370. The road ends at the trailhead after another half mile.