Trail to Matthieu Lakes a pleasant fall outing

When you're looking for a good solid hike but you're not up for an all out, all day adventure, the Matthieu Lakes trail is an excellent choice. This six-mile loop sits just on the Sisters side of McKenzie Pass. The Forest Service lists it as an "easy" hike, but it's really closer to "moderate." It's suitable for children, but you'll probably end up carrying toddlers.

Less than a quarter mile from the trailhead, the route meets the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) at a wall of lava rock. Turn left onto the PCT and continue for another half mile until the trail forks right to North Matthieu Lake. The trail heads up a moderate grade through a mixed conifer forest of hemlock and fir festooned in hanging mosses. The forest floor has lush ground cover, including low bush huckleberries, making it more reminiscent of a west-side forest. Of course, the west side is only a half-mile away.

The trail passes several ponds and dry ponds; and, as the trail climbs, deadfalls necessitate occasional detours. As of two weeks ago, some flowers still remained, most notably lupine, arrowleaf groundsel and a few asters.

The Matthieu Lakes are the scenic mountain gems you would expect them to be. The first, North Matthieu Lake, is about two miles in. The unusual spelling can be traced to Francis Xavier Matthieu, an Oregon pioneer from Montreal, who was among those who met at Champoeg in 1843 and voted to establish Oregon's first provisional government. He died at the age of 100 in 1919; the lakes were named for him in 1924.

We met a couple, camped at the north lake, who reported sleet and snow Labor Day weekend. Snow and extreme weather can materialize anytime in the mountains, so always be prepared - especially now that autumn is nearly here. The summit of the North Sister can be seen from the lake, peeking over a ridge to the south. To continue to the south lake, follow the trail to the left around the east shore.

South Matthieu Lake is another mile of mostly uphill trail. The total elevation climb from the trailhead is only 800 feet, but it seems like more. The trail rejoins the PCT just before reaching the lake. The mountain view from the south lake is nothing short of majestic. This is a great place to celebrate your hike with a well earned lunch break.

On the return route, take the right fork "high road" north of the lake, staying on the PCT. Soon you'll find yourself traversing a steep red cinder slope. Keep an eye out below, and before long you'll have a great bird's-eye view of the north lake, which you passed on the way in.

Once you're back inside the forest, take note of the bent trees lining the sides of the cinder hillside. Many of the tree trunks have a prominent curve toward the downward slope before they reach vertically toward the sky. When these trees were young, the heavy snows weighted them down-slope until they were tall enough and strong enough to overcome this seasonal force; but their early history is preserved in the misshapen trunks.

The return is a pleasant one, and soon you'll find yourself back at the trail junction where you peeled off to the north lake. Continue north on the PCT until you reach the clearly marked return to the Lava Lake trailhead. You'll know if you've gone too far, because the trail will traverse a portion of the lava field. The entire loop can be easily completed in 3-4 hours, including sightseeing and lunch breaks.

The trailhead is easy to reach from Sisters. Drive out the McKenzie Highway (242), past the high school and past Crossroads for a total of about 14 miles. Turn left onto a gravel road toward Lava Lake Camp after milepost 78; it's also clearly marked for the Pacific Crest Trail. (If you reach McKenzie Pass, you've gone a half-mile too far.) Turn right at the "horse use area," which is about 0.3 mile off Highway 242 and before Lava Lake. The trail begins at the loop parking area. Wilderness permits are required and are free at the trailhead. There is no trail-use fee at this site.