News and Opinion from Sisters, Oregon

Black Crater: 'tame' mountaineering

It's not particularly black, and there's not much in the way of a crater; but Black Crater provides plenty of challenge for the hiker. The four-mile trail (in each direction) is in great condition; but if this were a highway, there would be all sorts of yellow signs warning about steep grades. There are no complicated directions, no spur trails, no trail junctions. Just one direction: up.

If you have a hankering for a taste of mountaineering but would rather not complicate your life with pitons, ropes and crampons, this hike is tailor-made for you. The summit puts you right up among the Cascade mountains, with aerial views of all the highest peaks to the north and south.

In addition to spectacular scenery, Black Crater is also a perfect choice if you're looking for pure conditioning or a tune-up for more aggressive mountaineering. From the trailhead parking lot, the trail begins its upward climb immediately through a forest so dense that very little grows on the forest floor. This excellent trail is paved with fir and hemlock needles, and you will be in the shade for most of the hike.

About a half mile in, a jumbled rockslide looks like perfect pika habitat. I didn't see one, but I'd be willing to bet they live there. Pikas are about the cutest little critters you'll ever see or - more likely - never see. These reclusive creatures live in mountainous areas all over the world. Resembling hamsters, they're actually lagomorphs, members of the rabbit family. Listen for their squealing barks.

I found the most comfortable pace to be a very slow plod. Short sections of the trail are so steep I occasionally employed the mountaineering rest step, which calls for a moment of rest between each step. The few times the trail levels out, one feels prompted to stagger forward at a run.

A little more than a mile up the trail, I saw clothing discarded by overheated hikers. I don't recommend this practice because conditions change rapidly in the mountains. Carry a day pack for your extra clothing and emergency supplies. It wasn't a problem this day, though. It was a beautiful day in the low 70s with not even a breath of wind at the summit.

Wildflowers are sparse, but some seasonally challenged lupine continues to linger. A few arrowleaf groundsel and an Indian paintbrush or two may still be seen at the highest elevations, where firs are reduced to shrubs and stunted hemlocks are the tallest trees. Whitebark pine is also found near the summit. These incredibly hardy little trees survive the high winds and extreme cold all along the timberline of the Cascade mountains. Although only a few feet tall, some have been discovered to be more than 500 years old.

Be sure to carry plenty of water; I consumed about three pints. The last mile is mostly without shade. The climb took me almost two-and-a-half hours, including a 10-minute rest break a mile below the summit. The time back down was a much faster: one hour and 20 minutes. I saw a total of eight people on the mountain that day.

Like the rest of this broad-shouldered mountain, the area of the summit is quite large. The summit itself consists of a relatively small rock pinnacle, which, at one time, sported a fire lookout. The summit rock can be easily scaled without climbing equipment. Care should be exercised, however, because the drop-off on the northern side of the mountain is quite precipitous.

At 7,251 feet, Black Crater looks down on Black Butte and rivals the height of more recognized mountains such as Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Washington. Even Mt. Hood was clearly visible on a somewhat hazy day. The views of the North Sister and the McKenzie Pass lava flows are spectacular.

I enjoyed a 20-minute lunch break atop the mountain. The only other people on the summit were a couple from New Zealand. If people come all the way from New Zealand to climb Black Crater, shouldn't you climb it, too?

The Black Crater trailhead is approximately 11 miles west of Sisters on Highway 242 between mileposts 81 and 80, just after Windy Point. The trail begins at the loop parking area. Wilderness permits are required and are free at the trailhead. Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the wilderness rules; complimentary handouts are provided. There is no trail use fee at this site.

 

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