Hike Clear Lake for fall colors

In Alaska, we call it "Termination Dust," and it works pretty much the same way here. Now that snow is dusting the higher elevations, many of our summer activities are about to be "terminated." Still, don't think that the hiking season is over. We'll just focus on lower-elevation hikes to take advantage of our beautiful fall days.

Central Oregon is a wonderful place; but, when it comes to fall colors, we come up a little short. Only a half-hour away, however, are some of the most beautiful fall leaf displays this side of New England. Clear Lake is one of those easily accessible, special places that's not on everyone's radar. Just because it's on the other side of "The Hill," however, doesn't mean we should dismiss the nearby wonders of the upper McKenzie River.

Unlike most destinations I've featured in this hiking series, you can drive right up to Clear Lake. So, even if you're not inclined to hit the trail, this is an outing you can enjoy without ever leaving your car; but do! The loop trail is only five miles and offers terrific natural wonders.

For starters, unlike many Clear Lakes - and there are quite a few - this one lives up to its name. In fact, the intensely blue waters are so clear that you can see trees submerged when lava flows created the lake 3,000 years ago. These aren't petrified trees or lava casts; they're the real thing. The waters of Clear Lake are so cold that the microorganisms that cause wood to rot are generally not viable.

The excellent trail around the lake is nearly flat, except for some incidental ups and downs in the lava rock on the southeast portion; and most of that section is paved!

Pick up a copy of the nature trail guide at the lodge. There are 16 stations that tell the natural history of Clear Lake. The lodge, cabins, and boat rentals are available all year.

Thousands of vine maples encircle the lake and provide brilliant red and yellow fall colors. In fact, the vegetation is quite foreign to those of us who live at the edge of the High Desert. Giant fir trees, some more than 20 feet in circumference, grace the forest.

One of my favorite little trees is also native to the area. Pacific Yew is a little known "under-tree" growing in the shadows of the dense forests of the West. With neatly ordered flat rows of needles, like the teeth of a comb, yew resembles a cross between hemlock and grand fir but never reaches the grander dimensions of either. Unlike grand fir, the needles are pointed like sword tips; and, unlike hemlock, yew needles are longer and lie in a single, flat plane.

Although reported to reach heights of more than 75 feet, most are 20-30 feet tall, with diameters of only a few inches. I did see one specimen - between trail markers 11 and 12 - that is a foot in diameter and nearly 50 feet tall. The bark of larger yews is smooth, flaky, and purplish in appearance. The slow-growing, tightly-grained wood is extremely strong, yet limber. Yew has been used for centuries to make archery bows and canoe paddles.

Since October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, it's also appropriate to note a more recently discovered feature of the Pacific Yew. It is used in the manufacture of tamoxifen, a principal weapon in the treatment and prevention of breast cancer.

The most unique feature of the hike is Great Springs. Clear Lake is the "official" headwaters of the McKenzie River, but Great Springs gives birth to the lake itself. By fall, other tributaries to the lake are dry, but Great Springs pours 43-degree water into the lake without regard to the season. This deep blue pool near the northeast corner of the lake is a must-see; and, once you've come that far, you might as well do the entire loop. Right?

To access this hike, take Highway 20 west over the pass and turn left at the Santiam "Y" instead of continuing to Salem. Three miles later, take Highway 126 left toward Eugene for another three miles. Then follow the signs to Clear Lake Lodge on the left. This is not a fee-use area, but the campground on the other side of the lake is. Park near the resort to avoid usage fees.