Speaker leads armchair trek to Pakistan

Ruth Anne Kocour took more than 30 people into a world seen by few Westerners on Thursday, January 16, in a photographic presentation at the FivePine Conference Center in Sisters.

The audience gathered to hear Kocour speak about her experiences trekking in the war zones of Pakistan in 1998 and 1999.

The renowned author, photographer, and speaker interjected humor and anecdotes into her vivid descriptions of the people and sights she encountered on each of her month-long journeys.

Kocour began her presentation with an overview of the warnings she received before her trip, from the Minister of Expeditions in Pakistan. She was told that it was not safe to tell anyone she was an American except at the military checkpoints along her route. Kocour also wore the traditional female Muslim garments covering her face and body until she was out on the trail.

"I was not there to challenge the culture, I was there to experience it," she said.

Her experience of the culture included being required to eat in separate, curtained-off sections of restaurants that divided men from women, and riding in vehicles with closed curtains that prevent women from being seen.

Despite the many differences, Kocour found that her guide, the porters who assisted her with carrying gear and the people they met were most often gracious and respectful to her. She was greeted at strangers' homes with the traditional Pakistani welcome tea, took part in political discussions with Muslim members of her party, and became close friends with her guide.

Along her journey, Kocour developed a great respect for the people of Pakistan she encountered. After a short time together she felt that her companions treated her as though she was part of their family. The strength, endurance, loyalty and resourcefulness of the people who live in this harsh region were impressive to Kocour.

"If the world falls apart, these guys will be able to survive; we might not," she said.

The trips were not without dangers, both natural and human. Traversing across giant glaciers with avalanches cascading down with sounds like bombs going off was a common occurrence. Crossing primitive bridges over river canyons, careening down mountain roads in barely operating vehicles were all part of Kocour's daily existence in this wild country. The glaciers especially were both frightening and fascinating to her.

"The glaciers seemed alive," she said. "Sleeping in a tent at night with my head near the ground I could hear water running somewhere far beneath the ice. I could hear the creaks and groans of the glacier moving constantly."

Several times during her trips, soldiers - with machine guns pointed - would materialize suddenly from hiding places or run across miles of glacier to confront her party. Demanding to see official papers and questioning their purpose in the area, the soldiers meant business. Each time her native Pakistani guide was able to explain that they had permission to tour the country and the situations ended without incident.

Highlights of the adventures for Kocour included trekking to the base of K2 Mountain, visiting an ancient Buddhist site in predominately Muslim Pakistan, crossing over the border into China to visit a National Park, and going over a mountain pass road at an elevation of 15,500 feet.

Now living in Northern Nevada, Kocour is frequently asked to share her experiences in Pakistan with groups around the United States. Her photographic documentation of this volatile country and her descriptions of her contact with the peoples who populate it produce a dynamic presentation.

For more information and photos visit http://www.ruthannekocour.com