Natives didn't linger in Sisters Country

Don Zettle, Sisters Ranger District Archaeologist, got the COCC Lunch & Learn program off to a grand start last Wednesday, presenting the first of a "History of Sisters" series to a standing-room-only crowd at the Sisters Library.

Zettle gave the participants a close look at how elements of historical archaeology are helping us to locate and appreciate the approximately 7,000-year human history of the Sisters Country.

He shared evidence showing how the earliest known inhabitants of Sisters wandered through the present Dechutes National Forest, stopping for short periods to manufacture tools and gather food from wildlife and wild plants. Archaeological evidence seems to indicate that most of the early Indian bands that went through the Sisters Country did not linger long, unlike the native peoples who built a lodge near the abundant obsidian resources within Newberry Crater.

The small Sisters bands may have been on their way to the obsidian domes in the present Three Sisters Wilderness Area for materials to manufacture tools, and to trade with native peoples over in the Willamette Valley.

But even at that, Zettle believes it wasn't too unpleasant here thousands of years ago; food was plentiful and shelter was easy to find.

The science and disciplines of historical archaeology have also brought to light the trails and trials of early pioneers who struggled over the High Cascades from the Willamette Valley in the mid-1800s.

A volunteer army settled in the present Deschutes Land Trust Camp Polk Preserve area, named for Polk County, where most of the volunteers originated. In Zettle's words, the troopers "spent a little time here, and then went home."

Even though their time here was short, they were the pioneers of what would become the popular Santiam Wagon Road, still in use today as a popular hiking trail.

The old railroad grade carved out of the side of Hogg Rock on the Santiam Highway that followed the Santiam Wagon Road was the great hope for developers who sold land in the Laidlaw area, where Tumalo is today. The slick brochure that is on display in the Deschutes Historical Museum in Bend states that the railroad planned from Albany to a giant hub in Laidlaw - and on to points east, north and south-would be, "...throbbing with commerce."

As the country was settled, Zettle pointed out there were fire lookouts - not the fancy, live-in lookouts or sturdy towers of today - but rickety platforms placed in the top of tall trees on the summit of places like Cache Mountain, Black Crater Butte, Tam McArthur Rim, Alder Butte and other high spots around Sisters.

He also discovered old caches of fire tools in several places as he began his historical archaeology work on the district.

The history of the area around what is Whychus Creek today, and Pole Creek, is rich with historical remains of farming and logging. From 1903 to 1906 there was a water-powered sawmill on Pole Creek. There are still signs, such as "Driveway #4" to be found around Whychus Creek that 1905 cattle drives followed when early ranchers moved livestock through the area.

The first Squaw Creek irrigation scheme was started in 1872 with a concrete dam on what is Whychus Creek today. The creek was used so much for irrigation that water never reached the present site of Sisters in 1912. The original concrete dam washed out in 1921 and was replaced by a wooden structure in 1922 - and the creek has been washing out bridges ever since.

Zeller also found evidence that along with the pioneer irrigation and ranching structures, there was also an early ranger station site near Whychus Creek.

When asked what to do if one discovers evidence of native people cultures, or other historical items, Zettle said, "please leave it where you found it, call me and we'll learn what it is together."