Hike Broken Hand for vicarious mountaineering

When looking up at Broken Top from Sisters, have you ever noticed the prominent rock outcropping on the left shoulder of the mountain? Well, it's called Broken Hand, and that's where we're headed on today's hike.

In geological - or mountaineering - parlance, a rock pinnacle on a ridge, such as Broken Hand, is termed a gendarme. From the French word for policeman or guard, this type of gendarme guards the approach to the summit.

This rewarding climb builds on last week's hike up Tam McArthur Rim. Start at the same roadside trailhead near Three Creek Lake. About two miles of uphill climbing brings you to a very steep, wide, and scoria-surfaced trail leading to the crest of the ridge forming the rim. Much of the area on top of the rim is largely devoid of trees, and trails leading to the crest of the rim take off to your right. Instead, continue straight ahead.

Keeping the edge of the rim on your right, continue for about a half-mile, where the trail bends uphill to the right and joins another trail coming from the rim. Bear to the left, and continue to follow the edge of the rim.

If you have the time and inclination to combine the rim and Broken Hand hikes, it's a very easy matter to do so. Simply take one of the earlier forks to the right and hike along the edge of the rim to this trail junction.

From here, it's about a mile and a half to Broken Hand. Most of the next section of trail is essentially flat except for some minor undulations of the landscape as the trail winds around one of the Cascades' geologic wonderlands. I have often spotted obsidian and other interesting rocks along this stretch of the trail.

Eventually, the trail hugs a rocky slope on the right in order to skirt a snowfield on the left. Next, you have to decide whether to continue straight or take a fork to the left. The trail straight ahead descends what is left of the rim. Take the fork to the left and climb what appears to be a steep, brown cinder cone. You will discover that this is actually the shoulder of the ridge leading to Broken Hand and Broken Top.

Once on top, it's an easy matter to follow the ridge upward as it curls to the right. The first glimpse of Broken Hand reveals a layered pyramid-like structure with a considerable amount of foliage - one of the few such islands of green in the stark landscape. Upon viewing the pointed outcropping, one hiker theorized, "I guess it looks kind of like a hand."

In reality, the name has nothing to do with the appearance of this geologic feature. The little peak is named for Thomas "Broken Hand" Fitzpatrick. Fitzpatrick was born in Ireland in 1799 and explored Central Oregon as a scout for John C. Fremont in 1843. He earned his nickname when a rifle exploded and crippled his left hand.

The trail along the ridge disappears in a couple of rough and rocky patches but is easily followed by sticking to the ridge top. In spots, the trail is marked by small rock cairns. Reaching the base of Broken Hand is an achievement in itself, but there is more to be gained on this hike. I did not attempt to summit the pinnacle, although numerous routes appear suitable with appropriate climbing equipment.

I did, however, circumnavigate the pinnacle, which I do NOT recommend. The trail to the right is hardly a trail, at all. The footing on the steep slope is very poor, and the surface is covered with ball-bearing-efficient scree. The drop-off is considerable and potentially fatal. I'm glad my wife didn't know what I was doing.

The path around the left (south) side of the peak is a safer choice. There is some exposure, but there are many handholds and good footing. Once around to the west side of the pinnacle, there is a stunning view of Broken Top. As a bonus, you look down on a beautiful, textbook-perfect illustration of a glacier and ice-covered, moraine-impounded lake that can be seen from nowhere else, save from an aircraft. The lake is unnamed but is usually referred to as Bend Glacier Lake.

To return, remember that the path ahead (around the north side of the pinnacle) is very dangerous. So, return the way you came (around the south side), rather than continuing on around the pinnacle.

The base of Broken Hand is over 8,000 feet in elevation and affords all the joys of mountaineering, with less risk, less preparation and less equipment. It's an adventure that will leave you with an exhilarating sense of accomplishment. Throughout this hike, there is the sense of floating alongside the Three Sisters.

The trailhead is 16 miles south of Sisters on Three Creek Lake Road (Elm Street). The last two miles are gravel. A forest pass or daily $5 self-service parking permit is required. Wilderness permits are also required and are free at the trailhead.

The lack of signage and the disorganized array of trails atop the Rim is confusing, but the key is to keep to the high ground near the edge of the rim and head for the brown cinder slope. I recommend a good topographic map, but keep in mind that not all maps show Broken Hand by name; so plan your route ahead of time.