Tumalo trail is (almost) snow-free

Access to the high country trails is tantalizingly close. Last week, all but about the last quarter mile of the Tumalo Falls Loop was snow-free. Even so, the entire loop was a superb hike. Most trails under 6,000 feet are now snow-free.

This trail tops out at just a bit over 6,000 feet, and that's where it was still necessary to climb over a few snowdrifts. The trail was obscured for only short stretches and could easily be followed with a little care.

Most of the trail has been snow-free for some time, but we were waiting to do the entire loop. This is a great trail; and, even though it is nearly 7 miles with 1,000 feet of elevation gain, it's not particularly difficult. It's a very good hike for showing off a taste of high country Central Oregon to your reasonably fit out-of-town visitors.

Actually, to see Tumalo Falls itself, it's not necessary to hike at all. The principal viewpoint is adjacent to the parking lot. However, visitors who drive up to look at the falls and drive away are missing one of the best waterfall tours anywhere. I lost count of the multitude of Tumalo Creek waterfalls upstream of Tumalo Falls.

The hike starts in forest that was burned over in 1979 during the Bridge Creek Fire. In the 31 years since, it's plain to see that reforestation is well underway. It doesn't take long to leave the former burn behind and enter a beautiful open forest of big trees.

This classic eastside mixed forest is home to a veritable botanical garden of tree species. We saw four types of pine, a variety of true firs, lots of hemlock, and even spruce. As the trail wends its way upstream, the elevation gain is hardly noticeable in the grandeur of the forest.

This trail has some dangerous cliff edges, so keep a close eye on children, especially those with Y-chromosomes. For mountain bike enthusiasts, it is important to note that the route is open to uphill mountain bike traffic only. If you are biking, it is necessary to take the trail toward Happy Valley and find one of the other routes back down.

Some of the upstream falls are named, but most are not. We decided to name them after various family members as we traveled along. The first named major falls is Double Falls, about a mile from the parking lot. Once you see it, it's really not necessary to explain where this name came from. If a shorter hike is preferable, Upper Falls is a good turnaround spot for a 3.8-mile round trip.

The late-lingering snow at the halfway point of the full loop is on a north-facing ridge before the trail drops down to cross over the Middle Fork of Tumalo Creek. At one point, the trail lies between the North and Middle Forks, so the sounds of the tumbling waters are stereophonic.

This trail is unusually well marked, and there is only one place (near the turnaround point) where a significant divergence occurs. The trail to the right goes on to Happy Valley and links up with the Metolius-Windigo Trail. Here again, though, the trail is clearly marked by a signpost; this fork does occur in the latent snow area where some of the trail was obscured.

The Middle Fork crossing looks daunting, but a big log can be found just upstream (through a bog) for a dry crossing. Once across, the trail can be rediscovered just a bit downstream of the original trail approach. This is a great place for a lunch or rest break. Stopping by a beautiful and remote mountain stream like this is what hiking is all about.

The return loop is not as scenic, but is a nice hike all the same. Much of this portion will be through the old burn and new growth, and noble firs are popping up like weeds on the higher slopes. The trail also enters the Bend Watershed, and free self-service permits are required upon entry and must be carried. Absolutely no domestic animals are permitted inside the watershed: no dogs or livestock.

The lower reaches of this trail skirt the banks of Bridge Creek and return to the parking lot. There are more falls and spectacular rapids along this section. A negative to this route is that the Bridge Creek section is badly overgrown with encroaching manzanita. Mosquitos are also appearing, so take precautions.

If animal restrictions and overgrown vegetation do not appeal to you, you may want to choose to return by the original trail. We completed the entire loop in less than 4 hours, with frequent stops and a lengthy lunch break. We averaged about 2 mph, which I find to be a pleasant pace. Some of my other hiking buddies prefer 3 mph, which I think is a little too fast to fully enjoy the mountain surroundings.

To take advantage of this early season high country hike, take Highway 20 into Bend and turn right on Mt. Washington Dr. Stay on Mt. Washington to Skyliners Road (at a roundabout) and follow the signs to Tumalo Falls at the end of the road. The last 3 miles are on good gravel, and this is a Forest Service fee use site.