Fish Lake: now you see it, now you don't

Fish Lake, just over the Santiam Pass, is poised to perform its annual vanishing act. At the beginning of this month, the lake was full to the brim and overflowing down Fish Lake Creek to Clear Lake and the McKenzie River. By summer's end, however, the lake will be replaced by a wildflower-filled meadow.

The lake's peculiar geology causes this unusual annual phenomenon. Each year, the lake's basin fills with snowmelt; but the underlying lava and volcanic soils are so porous that the lake cannot sustain itself when the water input tapers off.

As a result, the lake goes dry each year. Still, there actually are fish in this seasonal lake; and they survive by retreating into the lake's principal tributary, Hackleman Creek, as the water level begins to fall.

This isn't the type of "hike" I usually feature in this column; but I know that not everyone is looking for a 10-mile backcountry trek, so it's nice to include a "saunter" once in a while. In fact, Fish Lake is a feature that is readily accessible by automobile. The mix of scenery and history make it a very pleasant day outing for those who aren't necessarily seeking a wilderness adventure.

Possible "saunters" here range from just a few yards outside the car to a walking tour of the historic Fish Lake Remount Station, which - if every feature is investigated - might total a mile.

Of course, if you want a real hike, you can always retrace part of the historic Santiam Wagon Road and hike any distance you choose. It's 2.6 miles to the Hackleman Road trailhead, 3.6 miles to Lost Prairie, and about nine miles to Tombstone Pass.

The Santiam Wagon Road was built in the 1860s and stretched from Sweet Home across the pass, down Indian Ford Creek, through Camp Polk, and eventually reached the Deschutes River north of present-day Redmond. Little more than a wide trail, the road was a principal trade route between western and eastern Oregon through the remainder of the nineteenth century and on into the twentieth.

In response to the increasing cross-state traffic, roadhouses appeared along the way, the largest of which was at Fish Lake. There, shelters were built to accommodate travelers; and the site is reported to have included a hotel, blacksmith shop, cabins, and a saloon.

The structures remaining today date primarily from 1910 and 1924. Of special interest, however, is the pioneer grave of Charity Ann Noble. Married at the age of 17 to James P. Marks, Charity died in childbirth at this remote way station less than two years later.

The Marks family was crossing Santiam Pass in October of 1875 when they were trapped by a snowstorm. Both Mrs. Marks and the infant died and were buried together at the site.

The old wagon road became obsolete in 1939 when the new Santiam Pass highway was completed along its present-day route. This new road means that today you don't need to worry about becoming trapped if you choose to visit the site of the old Fish Lake station.

To relive this bit of local history and visit Charity Ann's final resting place, travel west from Sisters over the Santiam Pass on Highway 20. At the Santiam "Y," take the left fork on Highway 20 toward Eugene and Corvallis. Three miles later, take the next left fork toward Eugene on Highway 126. Fish Lake is about a mile on the right. The first road, to the Guard Station, is usually gated; so take the Forest Service-marked day-use turnoff that follows.