Exploring Lower Whychus Creek

In most of my hiking columns, I encourage readers to try new experiences and new places, but not this time. This expedition involved precipitous cliffs, rockslides, dense thickets, rattlesnakes, ticks, thorns, dead-end routes, strenuous climbing, extensive steep hillside traverses, and constant alertness for the source of the copious mountain lion sign.

When we finished this endurance contest, I wasn't sure if what we felt was a sense of accomplishment or just relief. Having completed the adventure, however, I'm sure there are people who would be interested to hear about what lies in this stretch of Lower Whychus Creek in the heart of the Crooked River National Grassland.

Interest in Whychus Creek has been soaring as preservation and restoration efforts have accelerated in anticipation of returning anadromous fish runs to the region. Last season, I reported on an "unofficial" user trail along the west side of Lower Whychus Creek. That route is much more negotiable and generally sticks to the high ground, usually within sight of, but farther away from the creek.

The high ground on the east side of the canyon is not only well away from the creek but usually out of sight and sound. So, for exploration of the east side, we chose a water-level route through the depths of the canyon itself.

We proved that it's possible, but hardly recommendable.

The area explored is that portion of the creek upstream from the Alder Springs foot crossing and downstream of the road crossing that is accessible from the Alder Springs Trailhead or from Fremont Canyon off Wilt Road. We began at the road crossing, which I have used in the low-flow days of late summer and early fall. However, given the creek's still-swollen level, we elected to drive around to the Alder Springs side.

The first thing we noticed as we headed downstream was evidence of a high-water flood level well above the creek's usual boundaries - an obvious result of this year's mid-winter thaw and heavy rains. The second thing we noticed, in the recently deposited sand and silt at stream-side, were the freshly laid tracks of a large mountain lion. As we continued north, we also saw cougar scat, many deer bones, and the uneaten hind leg of a jack rabbit.

The beginning of the trek was pleasant enough, although we soon encountered obstacles that would prove to be only mild hints of what was to come. The rough stretches were interspersed with open portions and idyllic settings. As we progressed farther downstream, however, the respites of easy going became fewer and farther between. The unquestionable highlight of the journey was the spectacular canyon that the Whychus has carved as it rushes toward its confluence with the Deschutes River.

At one point, we detoured to investigate an exposed outcropping of contrasting rock layers of tuff comprised of ancient volcanic ash. While examining the rock shelf, we belatedly noticed a deep cave partially hidden by boulders. The mouth of the cave was littered with deer bones, leaving little doubt that the cave is frequented by one of the region's resident mountain lions. We continued on our way with a heightened sense of alertness.

About three hours downstream, we encountered the historic old bridge site and trail, which is accessible from the Alder Springs Trailhead. This deep, narrow cut in the rock walls of the canyon is an unusual feature in a landscape that usually permits the creek to wander a bit along the canyon bottom.

Given the proximity of the site to the Alder Springs Trailhead, one might assume that the end of the journey was near. Wrong. The stream makes some huge bends as it wends its way northward, and the already difficult terrain becomes much worse. This last portion was the most difficult and discouraging stretch of the entire journey.

Feeling like trailblazers from another century, we periodically traded off the lead as we hacked and clawed our way deeper into the canyon. As the day wore on, we began to wonder if we would reach an impassable dead end and have to retrace our steps. Finally we encountered some potential escape routes that would have at least prevented backtracking. In the end, we didn't need them.

As we reached the last big bend before Alder Springs, the canyon bottom widened into a comparatively large, flat opening with grass, willows, and very tall, old orange-barked ponderosa pines. This area is visible -although above and at a great distance - from the Alder Springs Trail; and that is where I would recommend viewing it from.

From that point on, the going became a little easier; and we grew increasingly optimistic above a successful conclusion to our adventure. When we finally reached the flowing waters of Alder Springs, we knew we had made it. We had packed water shoes in anticipation of this crossing, but we were able to scramble across on a convenient fallen tree.

We ate a well-earned late lunch on the northern bank of the confluence of Alder Springs and Whychus Creek. From there, the trail up and out of the canyon and back to the truck seemed like a stroll in the park.

I'm not going to bother with detailed directions. Knowing in advance what is waiting out there, you'd have to be crazier than we were to attempt this extraordinarily difficult journey. Do know, however, that there is some very rugged, wild, and beautiful country right here in our own back yard.