Alder Springs Fire has changed the hiking landscape

The popular Alder Springs Trail north of Sisters has a very different look this year. Last September, a 1,600-acre wildfire burned its way through the heart of the Crooked River National Grassland, leaving a significantly changed landscape in its wake.

Trailside fire damage is most obvious along the stretch of trail that descends into Whychus Canyon north of the trailhead. Much of the hillside along that portion of the trail is thoroughly burned. Looking across and beyond the western edge of the canyon, hundreds of burned acres stretch over the distant ridge and out of sight.

Thankfully, the relatively sparse vegetation and wide spacing of the juniper trees in the area resulted in a fire intensity that, for the most part, did not burn hot enough to completely sterilize the earth. Grasses and wildflowers are already recolonizing the soil.

The fire burned most intensely wherever it found large individual bitterbrush plants, and dark black circles mark each of those former hot spots. Many juniper trees were burned and killed, a few escaped entirely, and others were partially burned and may survive.

The few pine trees on the upper reaches of the canyon rim did not fare well, and most of those trees were killed. Sadly, many of the beautiful old orange-barked, creekside ponderosa pines on the canyon floor were also killed by the fire; although a substantial minority survived in a mosaic pattern, as the fire skipped over some areas.

Unfortunately, the fire crossed Whychus Creek in the same vicinity as the trail crossing. The upstream "Old Bridge" site escaped, but the burned landscape on the west side of the creek approaches to within a few yards of the terminus of the Old Bridge spur trail. The fire crossed to the east side of the stream just a little farther downstream. So, it is from that area, downstream to the trail crossing, where the canyon floor experienced the most severe fire damage.

The reason, of course, that the fire crossed the creek at the accessible slopes of the trail crossing is because - like the region's hikers - the fire was stymied by the spectacularly vertiginous rock walls that tell the region's geologic history. With successive deposits of conglomerate, volcanic tuff, and basalt flows layered one upon the other, the area's geologic secrets are exposed like diagrams of a textbook in the canyon walls.

Curiously, the fire damage in the area of the trail crossing is mixed. The lush green grasses along the stream bank persist, as do many of the alder trees. Yet, the trunk of a very large, old trailside ponderosa at the crossing is completely blackened; and every single needle is brown.

Hikers attempting this trip are reminded that a wet stream crossing is necessary if the confluence of Whychus Creek with the Deschutes River is the hiking goal. Sandals or water shoes should be carried, and hiking sticks or trekking poles are advisable with the swift current and uneven stream bottom. Last week, the water was approximately knee-deep.

I'd forgotten how utterly bone-chilling the creek's water can be at this time of the year until I was about halfway across. As my companion made fun of my vociferous complaints about the water temperature, I quickened my slow and careful pace and was very glad to haul out when I reached the other side.

Once across, the mosaic effect of the fire is again apparent. Soon, however, the burned ground disappeared; and most of the remaining trail downstream is untouched by the fire. Although this last stretch of trail is ostensibly "flatish," there are quite a few ups and downs and many, many rocks to step over and around. This part of the trail and the very steep portions in and out of the canyon have caused Crooked River Grassland officials to label this hike as "Most Difficult."

The entire hike is about three miles each way, for a total of six miles. With the laborious stream crossing and time for a lunch break at the Deschutes River, four hours is a reasonable amount of time to allow for this trip. Additional time for side trips, bird and wildflower studies, and other explorations can add up in a hurry, so plan your time accordingly.

At the river confluence, the mouth of Whychus Creek is hidden behind a screen of alders just upstream of a sign announcing the end of the maintained trail. If you don't look for it, you're likely to miss the fact that, when the trail ends, you're standing on the banks of the Deschutes River.

To tell when you're approaching the site, keep your eyes on the skyline across the river. A beautiful, mammoth rock formation with a natural window looms over the confluence of the two streams.

This is another good vantage point to admire the layering of the rock strata.

The return hike is over the same trail, but the perspective is entirely different; so it's like seeing new sights for the first time. The thing to remember is that, since the hike into the deep canyon was all downhill, you'd better be in good shape if you want to get back out.

The Alder Springs Trail begins on a dry, desolate ridge above Whychus Creek. To reach the trailhead, take Highway 126 east from Sisters about six miles to Holmes Road. Turn left and stay on Holmes Road for about seven miles, and turn left again onto Road 6360. This road is difficult to spot, so watch for it after passing a huge green-roofed barn on the left. Stay on the dirt and gravel road for a little more than three miles to a right turn onto Road 6370. The road ends at the trailhead after another half mile.