Tam-a-lau Trail has a story to tell

I've known about the Tam-a-lau Trail in Cove Palisades State Park at Lake Billy Chinook. I've seen it, driven by it, even kayaked below it; but until recently, I'd never actually hiked it.

As it turns out, this trail has a story to tell. The name, Tam-a-lau, comes from a Native American term that means "place of big rocks on the ground"; and there are plenty of big rocks here. In fact, the entire park has a way of bringing out the inner geologist in visitors.

The trail opened in 1997 as part of an effort to preserve an adjacent natural area for research. It sits atop "The Peninsula," which is the rock formation separating the Deschutes and Crooked River Canyons just before they join. The Tam-a-lau portion is nearly cut off from the very tip of the peninsula, which is called "The Island."

The Island is separated from the rest of The Peninsula by a deep cleft and high rock walls, giving it a mesa-like appearance. Although not quite an actual island, The Island has attained more complete separation from the rest of the peninsula by virtue of its formal designation as a Research Natural Area (RNA). It is the site of an isolated 200-acre plateau that is home to one of the few surviving undisturbed remnants of "pre-settlement ecology" in the area.

To keep the RNA undisturbed, the area has been permanently closed to recreational use in favor of research. The Tam-a-lau Trail was created to provide alternative public access to nearby similar terrain and sweeping views of The Island.

A complete transit of the Tam-a-lau Trail is a six- or seven-mile hike, depending on where you park. The hike requires an ascent of 600 vertical feet to reach the top of the plateau, where a 3.5-mile loop skirts the precipitous cliff edges atop The Peninsula, where the views stretch out in all directions.

The true trailhead is just beyond the southwestern edge of the Deschutes Campground. Access is also within a few yards of the Jordan Road turnoff to the Upper Deschutes Day Use Area. Most of the uphill trail is not too terribly steep, and the steepest portions have steps fashioned from old railroad ties. One minor alert: there is a false summit just when it first appears that the trail is topping out.

Once the true summit of the plateau has been attained, the hiker has the choice of turning left or right to complete the loop. The decision might be based on whether you want to reach the best viewpoint and stopping place sooner or later. Take the left fork of the trail, and it's only a little over a mile to the best views of The Island and the lake. Turn right, and it's a little over two miles to the same point. The northernmost point of the trail is a great place to linger and soak in the scenery.

Quite a few wildflowers are to be found on the plateau. Among the most interesting was the death camas. Unlike the edible camas - and as the name implies - death camas is quite poisonous. Its white flowers pop up from bulbs early in the season.

The trail skirts some extremely steep and dangerous cliff edges, which are potentially very dangerous for children and pets.

One of the features on this hike that is presumably similar to that of the closed RNA, is the presence of extremely large bitterbrush plants. While, perhaps, not quite measurable in board feet, one such plant more resembled a tree than a bush.

Some signs of early homesteading such as old roads and rock work remain in evidence. One historic road can be seen as a scar slanting its way up the western canyon wall of the Deschutes Arm. The lower portion of the road has been submerged in the lake for nearly 50 years. The road was carved out by the government in the early 1900s to help support dry-land farming that ultimately failed.

Many juniper trees on the plateau have been cut down and left in place, particularly on the southern portion of the trail away from the cliff edges. There is no explanation as to why this debris was created and abandoned.

This is a very worthwhile and pleasant hike; but, given the park brochure's adjectives of "best," "spectacular," and "awesome," we were a bit underwhelmed. Still, if you haven't visited this area before, it's worth the trip and offers many unique views.

The 4,000-acre Lake Billy Chinook is located at the confluence of the Metolius, Deschutes, and Crooked Rivers. The lake itself is contained within spectacular rock canyon walls that were created over millions of years by the three rivers. It was named for a Wasco Indian scout who helped guide John C. Fremont's expedition in 1843. The lake has been a key feature in Central Oregon geography, hydrology, and biology since completion of the Round Butte Dam in 1964.

To reach this hike, head north on Highway 97 for 9.9 miles beyond Terrebonne. Turn left onto OR 361 and follow the signs to Cove Palisades State Park. The Upper Deschutes Day Use Area is on Jordan Road after crossing the Crooked River Arm, driving between The Peninsula and The Island, then south for a short distance above the Deschutes River Arm. A state park pass or $5 daily parking fee is required. While the route in is clearly marked, there are no signs to mark the route out; so, pay attention to the myriad turns after you leave Highway 97.