Hiking the PCT between McKenzie and Santiam Passes

This was about as long a day-hike as I ever hope to make. A friend proposed the idea because she had just finished hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) segments from southern Oregon to McKenzie Pass, and from Santiam Pass to the Columbia River.

Because of a scheduling glitch, she had missed that "short" middle piece between the local passes; and she wanted to be able to claim all of the Oregon PCT in the same year. As it turned out, it was a good thing we went when we did, because a few days later, a fire closed the trail for the rest of the year.

When the subject first came up, my friend said it was only about 14 or 15 miles; later she said it was maybe 16 point-something. Afterward, I figured it clocked in at about 19.6. "Well, I didn't want to scare you off," was her excuse. What's really scary, though, is that these PCT thru-hikers cover that much - or MORE - every single day!

The night before our hike, we left one car at the Santiam Pass PCT parking lot; and the next morning, my wife dropped us off at the Dee Wright Observatory atop McKenzie Pass. That was a bit of a mistake on our parts because we added about three-fourths of an unnecessary mile. The trail from the observatory simply rejoins the highway at the official trailhead that much farther to the west.

The first two to three miles of this trip are over broken lava rock. The going is rough;  you need to pay attention to foot placement, or you will be likely to bruise or twist something. I also recommend shoes with fairly stiff soles; even so, your feet will take a beating.

The views, of course, are spectacular along this stretch of trail. I was particularly intrigued with the close-up approach to the east slopes of Belknap Crater. I really wanted to make a quick side trip to the top but wisely decided to save that for another day.

After clearing the first miles of lava, it's a relief to feel some good old trail dirt under your feet again. The PCT continues north through a nice high-elevation forest until it runs into the aftermath of first the 2006 George Fire, then the 2007 G.W. Fire, and then the 2003 Link Fire.

This hike concludes in the southern part of the 90,000-acre 2003 B&B Fire, and about the only major unburned stretch was the swath south and east of Big Lake that would be in flames within a few days after our passage through the area.

The trail flirts with, but never quite reaches, the 6,000-foot level as it transits the western slopes of Mt. Washington. This middle portion of the hike has some very nice sub-alpine forest and meadows. Thus far, the vegetation in this beautiful alpine setting is apparently sparse enough to have escaped the area's regular conflagrations that now seem to be taken for granted.

There are a few minor ponds along this hike; but, for the most part, there isn't much water until Big Lake. Continuing north, the trail descends from it's highest point, which is just a mile west of the summit of 7,794-foot Mt. Washington. Coldwater Spring, at about 5,200 feet, is little more than a wet spot in a tiny meadow, but is a nice spot for a break - and, as of this writing anyway, hasn't been burned.

In less than a mile, however, last year's Shadow Lake Fire is encountered. Stretching 10 miles from east to west, the 10,000-acre burn straddles the Cascade crest in both the Deschutes and Willamette National Forests. The effects of the burn are varied, with some areas badly scarred and others less so.

In a more severely burned section, about two miles beyond (north) of Coldwater Spring, there is clearly marked trail fork to the left that leads to the Big Lake Youth Camp. The camp is known among PCT hikers as a friendly site for resupply. To stay on the PCT, however, take the right fork for a mile-and-a-half to a road crossing at Forest Road 500.

From that road, it was about another three miles to Highway 20 and the PCT parking lot where we left our vehicle. It had been a long day by the time we finally reached the end of this hike.

Those last three miles are not very wild and were thoroughly burned by the B&B fire. So, if you'd like to pare this hike down to a little more manageable length, consider making your car drop on Road 500, near the youth camp. And don't forget to start at the trailhead west of McKenzie Pass. Those two adjustments should bring your hike in at just under 16 miles.

McKenzie Pass is 15 miles west of Sisters on Highway 242. Santiam Pass is 20 miles west of Sisters on Highway 20. The Santiam PCT parking lot is marked by a sign on the north (right) side of the highway. To reach the PCT crossing on Road 500, turn left (south) toward Big Lake. Proceed three miles on the paved road and turn left onto gravel Road 500 for about a half mile. The PCT crossing is a short distance past the entrance to the youth camp.