Last chance for free hikes to Pamelia Lake

For some time now, the popularity of Pamelia Lake has caused it to be designated a high-use area in the Detroit Ranger District, with entry allowed on a special permit basis only. That is not about to change.

What is changing, however, is that "probably" starting next year, Detroit will switch to online permits, which will cost $6 each. At present, although the number of permits is limited, the permits are still free. The Obsidian Trail, just over McKenzie Pass, has already switched to the online fee system.

I have hiked thousands of miles of trail, and these 2.3 miles were among the most beautiful. This easy stroll along Pamelia Creek already has me planning a return trip. Stepping onto the trail, the first thing you notice is the pungent odor of pure, rich forest. Rhododendrons line the path, and there would seem to be enough moss here to carpet Arizona.

Towering, limb-free Douglas fir trunks reach skyward to support a canopy for the cathedral-like setting; and the scattered beams of sunlight streaming through only serve to magnify the ethereal effect. Western red cedar, Pacific yew, grand fir, western hemlock, vine maple, and more overload the senses with green on this needle-carpeted, picture-book pathway.

The elevation gain to the lake on this mostly smooth, wide trail is less than 800 feet. The hiker is never out of earshot of roaring Marion Creek, as it rushes down the slope, providing natural air conditioning along the way. As the trail winds through the forest, there are signs of significant stream erosion to the forest floor, testifying to some fairly recent major flood or runoff activity.

In addition to stopping to admire the creek, there were two other distractions that caused me a bit of delay as I sauntered toward the lake. The first was that I kept stopping to eat huckleberries. The second occurred when I stopped to observe a confused little vole that ran out in front of me and then didn't know where to go.

And yes, as I just mentioned, there's a lake. It's a beautiful lake; and, from the northwestern shore, Mt. Jefferson presides over it like an enthroned king. The waters are cool and refreshing, and I literally swam with the fishes. Bright, red-banded rainbows to be exact, finning along close to shore.

As nice as the lake is, however, this is one of those situations we hear about where it's not about the destination, it's the journey. Really. So, the best part is that, when it's time to return, you get to do it all again. On the way out, I noticed new things. Like all the little seedlings growing out of decaying downed logs. Like the giant trees uprooted by flooding waters. Like....darn it, where did they come from? People!

In the morning, I had the trail and the lake pretty much to myself. I saw only three people from a distance across the lake. On the way out, in the early afternoon, however, I passed 24 people on their way in. Up until then I thought that the Forest Service must be pretty darn stingy with their limited number of passes.

On the other hand, this western door to the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness opens into a lot of country once the hiker enters the wilderness. The Pacific Crest Trail, on its way to Canada - or Mexico - passes within a half-mile of the lake. A trail to the summit of 5,799-foot Grizzly Peak splits off at the edge of the lake. The main trail continues on past Pamelia Lake to Hunts Cove, or even across the Cascade Crest to Carl and Cabot Lakes.

If you take the Grizzly Peak option, be advised that, in the early season, part of the trail may be under water. As summer progresses, the lake level drops; and the lake's outlet largely filters through the old rockslide that created the lake thousands of years ago. This year, however, the lake was full into the first week of August, leaving the main trail to the peak still submerged. There is an alternate rock-hopping crossing to be found about 200 feet downstream.

Whatever path you choose to explore this region, it will be the right one.

To reach the Pamelia Lake Trail, drive west from Sisters and turn right on Forest Road 2246, which is 4 miles beyond Marion Forks on Highway 22, or 19.4 miles past the Santiam "Y." Drive another 3.8 miles to the trailhead; all but the last mile is paved.

Entry permits to the area may be obtained by calling the Detroit Ranger District at 503-854-3366. Weekends must usually be booked well in advance. For a weekday hike, however, I had no problem booking the day before. The Detroit office graciously offered to fax my permit to the Sisters Ranger District, so that I would not have to drive all the way to their office.