Escape the smoke on the McKenzie River Trail

In the never-ending quest to find trails that are not burned over, enveloped in smoke, or currently in flames, why not try the upper McKenzie River for an excellent forest trail and beautiful waterfalls. This superb hike is only slightly more than half an hour from Sisters and is in a convenient spot that Duck fans routinely fly by on their way to Eugene.

Further, at an elevation that is below 3,000 feet, this hike is one that usually remains snow-free well into November and is also a great location to observe the progress of the fall colors. Some of the best hiking opportunities are in the beautiful days of fall. Plus, in the fall, you'll find the trails are less crowded because most people wrongly conclude that the hiking season is over. That's their loss.

The McKenzie River Waterfalls Loop Trail is part of the McKenzie River National Recreation Trail, which extends more than 26 miles from Fish Lake to McKenzie Bridge and includes another popular fall hike, Clear Lake. The Loop Trail features Sahalie Falls and Koosah Falls and another lesser-known falls in between. People who do not hike this trail, and sightsee only at the roadside viewpoints for Sahalie and Koosah, will never get to see this hidden waterfall.

These other falls are indeed so "lesser-known" that the first two Forest Service employees I met at the McKenzie River Ranger Station denied that any other falls existed. Eventually, I found someone who suggested that maybe the mystery falls were sometimes called Lower Sahalie Falls. Sahalie and Koosah Falls viewpoints are accessible by road, but the only way to see these other falls is to take the Loop Trail.

The trail can be accessed at multiple locations, and we chose the Sahalie Falls viewpoint. I recommend heading upstream on the trail that leaves from the parking lot. It's okay, however, to first sneak a peek at the falls from the viewing platform. It's only a few yards out of your way. All the falls on this hike were created by lava flows 3,000 years ago, the same flows that created Clear Lake, the upstream source of the McKenzie River. Information signs in the parking lot explain the geologic history.

This route takes the hiker counterclockwise around the loop and immediately enters a lush mixed forest with many deciduous trees with leaves that will soon be turning to fall colors. Douglas squirrels barked their high-pitched displeasure at our intrusion.

Vine maple and sword ferns abound. Big-leaf maple, hazelnut, golden chinkapin and cascara are also present. The bark of the cascara can be used as a laxative! Who knew? Conifers include Douglas fir, grand fir, Pacific silver fir, western red cedar, western hemlock, and the interesting little Pacific yew, with its salmon-egg-like arils and a proud history in the early development of tamoxifen, a pharmaceutical used to combat breast cancer.

The trail makes its way north to the very top of Sahalie Falls, and there are good views there, too. Follow the trail upriver and beyond the falls for a half-mile to an excellent log bridge with handrails. Here, the Loop Trail shares the crossing with the southbound McKenzie River Trail. Cross the bridge to follow the trail down the less-travelled west side of the river.

Once across, follow the river downstream to a point where the river seems to just disappear. This, of course, is also the top of Sahalie Falls, which you already explored from the other side. Take the time to enjoy the different views of the falls that parking-lot visitors will never get to see.

Continuing downstream, the river is occasionally out of sight but never out of earshot. So, keep your ears alert for a noticeable increase in river noise or you may overlook the "mystery falls" - Lower Sahalie - that suddenly come into view over your left shoulder. These falls cannot be seen from any highway viewpoint and are visible only to hikers.

Farther south down the trail, Koosah Falls provides another multitude of photographic opportunities. Rhododendrons in this area grow 12-15 feet high. A short distance farther downstream, the McKenzie River Trail veers off to the right at the base of a giant eight-foot-thick fir. Take the fork to the left; and, within about 100 yards, the trail dumps out onto the gravel road skirting the north edge of Carmen Reservoir, part of the Carmen-Smith Hydroelectric Project.

Turn left and cross the river on the vehicle bridge. A sign on a tree will point you back to the trail along the east side of the river. From here, it's less than a mile back to Sahalie Falls (via Koosah Falls) on this easy three-mile loop. This is a good hike for children, with lots of natural wonders to interest them along the way.

This fun hike is only 34 miles west of Sisters and is easy to reach. Take Highway 20 west over Santiam Pass and turn left at the Santiam "Y". Three miles later, take Highway 126 left toward Eugene for another five miles. The Sahalie Falls parking area is on the right. This trail is "advertised" as usually snow-free from April through November. Roadside viewpoints at both major falls are wheelchair accessible.