Clear Lake is an ideal fall hike

If you've been despairing of a waning hiking season, take heart! The hiking season isn't over yet; and, as the Pole Creek Fire continues to burn itself out, there are still excellent fall hiking opportunities to be enjoyed. So far, we've had beautiful fall days, and even the high country trails remain snow-free.

One of Central Oregon's best places for fall hiking and fall colors lies just over Santiam Pass at Clear Lake. Only a half-hour away, Clear Lake offers some of the most beautiful fall leaf displays this side of New England. Plus, it is one of those easily accessible special places that is not on everyone's radar. Just because it's on the other side of "The Hill," doesn't mean we should overlook the nearby wonders of the upper McKenzie River.

So, last week, we took the relatively short drive over to Clear Lake. Even though the recent easterly winds have pushed the Pole Creek smoke west, smoke was not particularly apparent at the lake itself. Still, looking back to the southeast toward the Three Sisters, the view was a bit hazy, reminding us that the fire was not far away.

Unlike many of the area's more remote hiking destinations, you can drive right up to Clear Lake. So, even if you're not inclined to hit the trail, this is an outing you can enjoy without ever leaving your car; but do! The loop trail is only five-and-a-half miles and offers terrific natural wonders.

For starters, unlike many Clear Lakes - and there are quite a few - this one lives up to its name. In fact, the intensely blue waters are so clear that you can see trees submerged when lava flows created the lake 3,000 years ago. These aren't petrified trees or lava casts; they're the real thing. The waters of Clear Lake are so cold that the microorganisms that cause wood to rot are generally not viable.

The excellent trail around the lake is nearly flat, except for some incidental ups and downs through the lava rock on the southeast portion of the trail; and most of that section is paved! On this visit, we followed the trail counterclockwise around the lake, only because we went the opposite way the last time we were here. We did observe, however, that traveling in this direction means never having to directly face the sun. When traveling south on the west side of the lake, the hiker is always in the shade; and, when hiking north through the open lava flows on the east side, the sun is at your back.

The lake is also home to a lodge, a small general store, cabins, and boat rentals. The facilities are open and available all year. Although a tiny restaurant that operates only during the summer was closed, we were able to treat ourselves to ice cream sandwiches at the lodge's general store. Some of the 3,000-year-old submerged tree trunks can be seen from the dock at the lodge.

On the whole, the vegetation surrounding the lake is quite foreign to those of us who live at the edge of the High Desert. Thousands of vine maples encircle the lake and provide brilliant red and yellow fall colors. However, in the interest of full disclosure, I should probably report that the leaf colors are not as bright this year as some years. Our region's lack of rainfall is probably to blame, and some of the trees have faded directly from green to brown this year.

Still, you will see plenty of brightly colored leaves and more. Giant fir trees, some more than 20 feet in circumference, grace the forest. One of my favorite little trees is also native to the area. Pacific yew is a lesser-known "under-tree" growing in the shadows of the dense forests of the West. With neatly ordered flat rows of needles, like the teeth of a comb, yew resembles a cross between hemlock and grand fir but never reaches the grander dimensions of either. Unlike grand fir, the needles are pointed like sword tips; and, unlike hemlock, yew needles are longer and lie in a single, flat plane.

Although reported to reach heights of more than 75 feet, most are 20-30 feet tall, with diameters of only a few inches. I did see one specimen on the east side of the lake that is a foot in diameter and nearly 50 feet tall. The bark of larger yews is smooth, flaky, and purplish in appearance. The slow growing, tightly grained wood is extremely strong, yet limber. Yew has been used for centuries to make archery bows and canoe paddles.

Since October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, it is also appropriate to note the role of the yew tree's bark in the early development of tamoxifen, a pharmaceutical used to combat breast cancer. Tamoxifen, however, is now synthetically produced.

One of the most unique features of the hike is Great Springs. Clear Lake is the "official" headwaters of the McKenzie River, but Great Springs gives birth to the lake itself. By fall, other tributaries to the lake have mostly dried up, but Great Springs pours 43-degree water into the lake without regard to the season. This deep blue pool near the northeast corner of the lake is a must-see; and, once you've come that far, you might as well do the entire loop. Right?

To access this hike, take Highway 20 west over the pass and turn left at the Santiam "Y" instead of continuing to Salem. Three miles later, take Highway 126 left toward Eugene for another three miles. Then follow the signs to Clear Lake Lodge on the left. This is not a fee-use area, but the campground on the other side of the lake is. Park near the resort to avoid usage fees.