News and Opinion from Sisters, Oregon
This time of year, we never know exactly when snowfall will shut the door on the high country. It hasn't happened quite yet; and, at just over 5,000 feet, Mowich Lake isn't extremely high. So, last week, we headed out on an 8.8-mile round trip to Mowich Lake under the "possible threat of a few light showers."
From the parking area, the trail to Mowich Lake plunges into a beautiful, dense, westside mixed-conifer forest. Huge trees with tall, clean, and straight trunks lend the forest a cathedral-like atmosphere.
The trail was also lined with gorgeous fall colors. The vine maples were really showing off in their last hurrah before settling in for the winter. This hasn't been a banner year for fall colors, but these trees on the moist, mostly north-facing slopes were in full fall regalia. This was also a poor year for huckleberries, and what few there were are long gone. We found a grand total of two berries. Even the colorful red huckleberry leaves are fading and falling.
The upward grade of this hike is gradual and fairly steady. The trail should be considered to be of moderate difficulty, with a little over a thousand feet of elevation gain over the 4.4-mile route. In places the trail is rocky, so attention to your footing is advisable. Still, it's not too bad, and there were signs of recent horse traffic; so this is a trail suitable for equestrians, as well.
Nevertheless, we saw no other backcountry travelers until we were on our way out. With only about a mile to go on our return to the trailhead, we encountered three inbound elk hunters. We saw no one else on the trail or at either of the lakes we visited.
There is a well-marked trail fork at the 1.7-mile mark. The trail to the left leads toward Turpentine Peak and Turpentine Lake, continuing all the way to Pine Ridge Lake. To reach Mowich Lake, stay right for another 2.7 miles. There are a number of side trails along the way, especially around the lakes, so pay close attention to the signage. Fortunately, trail signage in the Willamette National Forest is quite a bit better than in the Deschutes.
Much of the trail follows the upper reaches of the North Santiam River. Most of us are familiar with the North Santiam where it flows into Detroit Lake; but, this high in the mountains, it's more the size of a creek. In a dry year like this one, however, the upper reaches were completely dry last week.
Just short of Duffy Lake is a crossing of the river about a mile after the Turpentine Trail fork. There is no bridge. Depending on your tolerance for precarious log crossings, of which there are at least two possibilities, you may want to consider carrying water shoes or sandals. We did not need them last week.
After the crossing, there is another trail fork in about 0.4 miles, this time to the right; it leads toward Maxwell Butte. Pay no attention to the fork, and stay straight toward Duffy Lake. Many scenic meadows and openings in the forest lie along this relatively flat section of trail.
Upon reaching Duffy Lake, rocky Duffy Butte can be seen rising above and providing a scenic backdrop to this beautiful setting. Duffy Lake largely escaped the disastrous B&B fire of 2003, but burned areas are visible as close as the opposite (north) side of the lake. Idyllic campsites are located near the lake, but campfires are not permitted within 100 feet of the shoreline.
The trail continues around the south side of the lake, and another trail to the south leads to Santiam Lake and Santiam Pass. Stay left toward Mowich and the Eight Lakes Basin. From Duffy, it's a little over a mile to Mowich Lake. We both observed, however, that it seems like a pretty long mile.
So far, most of this hike is in dense, unburned forest; but, once past Duffy Lake, the trail enters a portion of the B&B Fire. The natural reseeding in this portion of the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness is interesting to observe. Unlike some parts of the burn, where dense thickets of lodgepole pine are forming, this area is rich in tiny hemlocks and firs. Prior to reaching Mowich Lake, the trail returns to unburned forest.
Much of the shoreline around Mowich Lake was badly burned in the fire, but there is a nice unburned section at the south end of the lake. We sat on a log at the lake's edge and enjoyed a leisurely lunch until a few of those "possible light showers" began to paint little circles on the surface of the lake.
So, we pulled out our rain jackets and reluctantly headed back down the trail. The return trip was pleasantly downhill. The showers stopped, then started again. We never really became very wet, and the rain didn't even come close to dampening our spirits. We even took the time to enjoy views and leaf colors on the way back.
To reach the Duffy and Mowich Lakes Trailhead, take Highway 20 west over Santiam Pass and take Highway 22 toward Portland and Salem. Six miles west of the Santiam "Y," the turnoff for Big Meadows Road and the trailhead is on the right and is well marked. Take Forest Road 2267 for about 3 miles and follow a sign to the left when the pavement ends. A turnaround loop is at the end of the road. This is a fee-use area for parking. Free wilderness permits are also required and are available at the trailhead kiosk, and a toilet is available in the parking area.
Always, but especially this time of year, keep a close eye on the weather; and be prepared for unexpected and sudden changes. Carry appropriate emergency equipment and supplies. During hunting season, it's also a good idea to wear blaze orange for maximum visibility.
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