Nordic skiing at Hoodoo

Just because the high-country trails are buried in snow doesn't mean that the high country is closed. In fact, the Deschutes National Forest Trails office continues to publish trail updates designed for winter outdoor enthusiasts. The recent plentiful snow and sunshine have made this January a great time to get out and explore the woods.

Although I'm more likely to be found on the alpine slopes, my skiing buddy has been trying to gradually expand my horizons a little further into the cross-country realm. So, last year, I finally gave up my museum-quality cross-country gear, and sprung for some nice, new backcountry ski equipment. Not to say that I'm anything close to being an expert at it, but I've been making some micrometrical inroads into the sport.

After some warm-up sessions in our copious backyard snow, I decided to get a little more serious. So, I took a break from downhill skiing to work on my rudimentary Nordic skills. My buddy was out of town, so I thought the safest and easiest opportunity for a solo skier would be up at Hoodoo's Nordic trails.

Hoodoo's Nordic trail system is extensive, and the snow remains deep all winter, even during periods when some of the lower-elevation areas become marginal. My Hoodoo season pass is good on all the Nordic trails, as well; but, what many locals don't realize is that Hoodoo's trail system is open for free public use Monday through Thursday (except holidays).

The trails are not groomed or patrolled on these free days, but they are cleared and you can count on them having been groomed over the weekends. For weekend users, Nordic ticket prices are much less than alpine tickets.

Hoodoo Nordic instructors Bev MacDonald and her husband, Mike Armstrong, are both members of the Professional Ski Instructors of America, and are as familiar with Hoodoo's trails as anyone. "Ample snowfall prior to Christmas followed by additional snow in January has made for outstanding cross-country skiing on both cross-country trails at Hoodoo Ski Resort," said MacDonald. "For the lower trail, receiving this much snow allows the Hoodoo groomers to lay out a lovely, wide groomed trail while also setting a double-track. This allows a lane for Nordic skaters while the classic skiers use the tracks on the side."

There are two Nordic trail networks at Hoodoo, and the lower system seems to get the most use. "At 7.5 kilometers it is used by all levels of skiers and is preferred by beginning to intermediate classic and skate skiers," said MacDonald. "The upper trail (8.8K) is accessed by the Manzanita chairlift. On a clear or partly cloudy day skiers are rewarded for their effort by breathtaking mountain views. This trail is used by more experienced skiers."

Curiously, MacDonald has observed that quite a few of the skiers using Hoodoo's Nordic trails are not local.

"Many, if not most, of our Nordic skiers come from Valley locations, especially Corvallis, Salem, and Eugene." She has also noticed that increasing numbers are coming from the Portland area.

"So many of them just don't want to deal with Mt. Hood anymore," she said. "They tell me that it's just a zoo up there."

On my recent Friday outing at Hoodoo, I encountered only six other skiers. Part of the time, I used the tracked portion of the lower run, and part of the time I skied in the groomed skating area. The B&B Fire burned much of this area, but there are still numerous unburned trees; and even the burned sections offer beautiful scenery and - of course - unobstructed mountain views.

Hoodoo has some other advantages, too. Aside from the higher elevation and dependable snow, sno-park permits are not required at Hoodoo's ample parking lots. Then there is the beautiful warm lodge and dining opportunities (except on Wednesdays).

MacDonald, a native Oregonian and retired teacher, has over 40 years of experience with Nordic skiing and seems to have found a home at Hoodoo. She says that she loves to see how visitors "like exploring nature in the mountains while sliding and skating and getting an amazing workout. Each person on the trail has a different story to tell, explaining how they came to try our trails and why they return time and time again. In almost every case, family and friends are part of the story."

In fact, she says it's not uncommon for families to spread out over the whole resort. While one or two family members may be using the Nordic trails, others "are snow-boarding, alpine skiing or tubing at the Autobahn. Everyone is having a good time," she said. "This ski season is off to a great start, and we all have our fingers crossed in hopes that Mother Nature will continue to grace us with more snow and sunshine."

The lower trail system is easily accessible from the lodge area or even directly from the access road off Highway 20, just a little over 20 miles west of Sisters. The terrain is varied, and there are a few hills. Personally, I can honestly say that I do just fine on the flat and even going uphill. Going downhill, however, is another matter.

You would think that a downhill alpine skier like me ought to be able to ski downhill on Nordic skis; but, as I've learned, it doesn't exactly work that way. I've mentioned my Nordic downhill ineptitude to other Nordic skiers. Much to my pleasant surprise, they tend to commiserate that even experienced Nordic skiers often find downhill stretches challenging.

Nordic skiing offers a winter outdoor experience that is entirely different from downhill skiing, and I know that I'm enjoying the opportunity to "mix it up" a bit. Hoodoo offers a safe and easy-to-reach venue that caters to all levels of Nordic ski skills.

Winter sports enthusiasts are reminded that weather conditions are constantly changing, and they change fast. Especially in the more remote areas, always travel with plenty of warm clothing, food, water and emergency equipment.