Obsidian Trail is a unique path into the Three Sisters Wilderness

With mountain streams and plentiful wildflower meadows, I have long considered the Obsidian Trail to be one of the premiere hikes into the Three Sisters Wilderness; yet, until recently, I hadn't been on the trail in a quarter of a century! In fact, the last time I hiked this route was in 1987, when one of my sons and I hiked from the McKenzie Highway to Century Drive.

On that trip, we hiked, on the west side, south as far as the saddle between the Middle and South Sisters. Then we crossed over to the east side through the Chambers Lakes and continued cross-country south into the Green Lakes Basin.

That sort of major expedition isn't necessary, however, to enjoy an outing on the Obsidian Trail. I suppose the reason for my long absence from this trail is twofold. First, I tend to be rather spontaneous in my hiking these days, and Obsidian is a little farther and longer than the multitude of other options available locally. Second, it's kind of hard to be spontaneous when a special entry permit is now required for the trail.

The Forest Service has designated the Obsidian Trail region as a "heavy-use area," and limited entry permits have been required since the mid 1990s. The purpose of the permits, of course, is to limit user impact. Prior to imposition of this requirement, the area was being significantly damaged by over-use.

The Forest Service considers that the permit system has successfully and significantly mitigated damage to the area. Permits are supposedly "free," but there is a $6 "transaction fee" associated with the permit process. Permits are limited to 30 day-use hikers per day and 40 overnight users.

The permit system is so effective in reducing traffic that, during our hike, we did not see a single hiker in the permit area. The only hiker we did see near the area was skirting the high-use area because he was unable to obtain a permit.

Once in the area, the reason for the Obsidian Trail becoming a high-use area quickly becomes obvious. Spectacular vistas open up in every direction, and the unusual Obsidian Cliffs can be seen on the way into this spectacular region. If you treasure babbling brooks running through gorgeous mountain meadows, then this is a hike for you.

All along this hike, close-up views of the western slopes of the North and Middle Sisters are unique to this trail. Principal climbing trails for these peaks take off from the Obsidian Trail. In fact, my first forays onto this trail were for the purpose of North and Middle Sister climbs.

The trailhead is found in the vicinity of Frog Camp and follows White Branch Creek, first through lodgepole pine and eventually into forests of fir and hemlock. At about 3.5 miles, the trail crosses through a lava flow, where expansive views of the mountains are everywhere.

At about four miles, the trail crosses White Branch Creek, and shortly thereafter forks in a very nice meadow filled with wildflowers. The fork is the starting point of a challenging and scenic loop that will return the hiker to this very same spot about four miles later. I recommend taking the right fork in the direction of Linton Meadows and Obsidian falls. The left fork, Glacier Way Cut Off, is very steep; and I prefer taking that trail downhill!

About 1.7 miles up the right fork, the trail joins up with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The volcanic obsidian rocks, from which this hike takes its name, are especially abundant in this area and played an important role in the area's cultural history. For thousands of years, Native Americans sought out this area as a source for high- quality obsidian for the making of tools and weapons.

The glass-like black obsidian is formed when silica-laden molten lava flows to the earth's surface without making contact with water. When this same lava encounters water, it produces the more familiar air-filled porous lava rock. When sufficient foaming or frothing occurs in lava, extremely porous and lightweight pumice may be the result.

To complete the return loop, take the PCT left (north) to Obsidian Falls, then past Arrowhead Lakes and this hike's highest elevation point of about 6,500 feet, which makes for a total elevation climb of approximately 1,700 from the trailhead.

Continuing north, the PCT meets up with the upper end of Glacier Way Cut Off, which is your cue to take this steep westbound trail downhill and back to the wildflower-laced meadow where the trail forked. Returning by the same route from the meadow, the total distance of this hike is a commendable trip of 12 miles.

To reach the Obsidian trailhead at Frog Camp, take the historic McKenzie Pass Highway (242) west from Sisters. From the summit of the pass, continue west for another 6 miles and turn left (east) at the Obsidian Trailhead. In addition to the limited entry permit, a federal parking pass is also required at this location.

Limited-entry permits can be obtained online at http://www.recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777. Permits can now be printed online within 14 days of use, so it is no longer necessary to obtain them directly from the McKenzie District Ranger Station. This entire hike is within the Three Sisters Wilderness boundary, so wilderness permits are required and are free at the trailhead kiosk. Always be properly equipped for wilderness travel, and carry the 10 essentials and ample emergency supplies.