Black Crater Trail: steep and forested

An excellent conditioning trail, the Black Crater Trail is just under four miles each way but is one of the steepest trails around, gaining 2,500 feet of elevation from where it takes off from the McKenzie Highway near Windy Point.

Probably taking its name from the dark appearance of its densely forested slopes, it's not really particularly black; and that's a good thing since it is one of a limited number of local trails that has not been blackened by fire in recent years. Of course, that's the sort of statement that makes one want to knock on a specimen of nearby wood. Unfortunately, there is plenty of insect-killed dead and fallen wood available for that purpose on the lower portion of the trail. So, hopefully, this section of fir and hemlock forest can avoid the fate of its neighbors.

From the trailhead parking lot, the trail begins its upward climb immediately, through a forest so dense that very little grows on the forest floor. This excellent trail is paved with fir and hemlock needles, and you will be in the shade for most of the hike. Plus, most of the trail lies on the north-facing slope of the mountain, so it is an ideal choice for a challenging hike on a hot day when other choices might be less inviting.

About a half-mile in, a jumbled rockslide looks like perfect pika habitat. We didn't see any here, and the spot is a bit toward the lower end of their elevation range; but I would not be surprised to find some there. Pikas are about the cutest little critters you'll ever see or - more likely - never see. These reclusive creatures live in mountainous areas all over the world. Resembling hamsters, they're actually lagomorphs, members of the rabbit family. Listen for their squealing barks.

Farther up the mountain, near a meadow in a glacier-carved valley on the northeastern slopes, we heard two pikas calling out from opposite sides of the meadow. Earlier in the year, this area would have been covered in wildflowers.

The trail itself is in great condition and cleared of obstructions; but if this were a highway, there would be all sorts of yellow signs warning about steep grades. There are no complicated directions, no spur trails, no trail junctions. Just one direction. Up.

If you have ever thought about climbing some of our magnificent mountains but would rather not complicate your life with pitons, ropes, crampons, or the inherent risk, this might be the hike for you. The summit puts you right up there among the Cascade mountains, with some of the best available views of all of Oregon's highest peaks to the north and south.

I know of people who speed-climb this mountain or even jog this trail. On our visit last week, we encountered a woman engaged in conditioning who passed us on the way up - and, not much later, passed us on the way down. Never known as a speed-hiker myself, I found the most comfortable pace to be a very slow plod. Short sections of the trail are so steep that I even employed a mountaineering rest step, which calls for a moment of rest between each step. The few times the trail levels out, forward advance seems almost effortless.

On one trip up here, I saw excess clothing discarded along the trail by overheated hikers during the ascent. I don't recommend this practice because conditions change rapidly in the mountains. Play it safe, and carry a day-pack for your extra clothing and emergency supplies.

The last time we climbed Black Crater, a pine marten dashed across the trail in front of us around the 6,000-foot level and appeared to be clutching a hapless rodent in its jaws. This member of the weasel family ranges up into the subalpine regions of the Cascades. Mt. Bachelor's central chairlift is named for this interesting animal.

The uppermost last mile or so of the trail is largely exposed and has several switchbacks, as the trail makes its final push toward the summit. Here, the firs are reduced to shrubs, and stunted hemlocks are the tallest trees. Be sure to carry plenty of water. This last stretch is mostly without shade.

Whitebark pine is also found near the summit. These incredibly hardy little trees survive the high winds and extreme cold all along the timberline of the Cascade mountains. Although only a few feet tall, some have been discovered to be more than five hundred years old.

Just as Black Crater isn't very black, there is not much in the way of a crater, either. At the very top, a short, barren, rocky little plain leads to a rocky pinnacle of sorts. If you are a summit purist, this rock prominence can easily be scaled without special equipment. A few steel bolts and attachments are all that remain at a site which once sported a forest lookout. Caution should be exercised at the true summit because there is a sheer drop-off of several hundred feet on the north side.

Black Crater offers plenty of challenge, and most hikers should allow two-and-a-half to three hours to reach the summit. The time back down is a much faster hour-and-a-half. I saw a total of only five other people on the mountain last week.

At 7,251 feet, Black Crater looks down on Black Butte and rivals the height of more recognized mountains such as Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Washington. Even Mt. Hood is clearly visible on most days. The views of the North Sister and the McKenzie Pass lava flows are spectacular.

The Black Crater Trailhead is approximately 11 miles west of Sisters on Highway 242 between mileposts 81 and 80, just after Windy Point. The trail begins at the loop parking area. Wilderness permits are required and are free at the trailhead. Take the time to familiarize yourself with wilderness rules. There is no trail-use fee at this site.