Hike Oregon history via Yapoah Crater

Here is a pleasant 10-mile hike, peppered with historical footnotes, that involves a net loss of a little over 500 feet in elevation.

This route begins near McKenzie Pass, ascends to the Matthieu Lakes, descends from Scott Pass, skirts the base of Yapoah Crater, and returns to the McKenzie Highway near Scott Lake. A car drop is required unless you want to walk the 6.5 miles of the McKenzie Highway between the two trailheads.

The hike begins at the trailhead near Lava Camp Lake. Less than a quarter mile from the trailhead, the route meets the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) at a wall of lava rock. Turn left onto the PCT and continue for another half-mile until the trail forks right to North Matthieu Lake. If you miss the fork, it's no big deal, because the two trails merge again farther up the grade; but you would have bypassed the first lake.

The trail heads up a moderate grade through a mixed conifer forest of hemlock and fir festooned in hanging mosses. The forest floor has lush groundcover, including low-bush huckleberries, making it more reminiscent of a west-side forest. Of course, the west side is only a half-mile away.

The first leg of the journey takes you to the Matthieu Lakes, a pair of scenic mountain gems. The first, North Matthieu Lake, is about two miles in. The unusual spelling can be traced to Francis Xavier Matthieu, an Oregon pioneer from Montreal, Canada, who was among those who met at Champoeg in 1843 and voted to establish Oregon's first provisional government. His participation and vote - along with those of his fellow Frenchmen - helped cement the American claim on the Oregon Territory and sound the death knell for British interests in the region.

Matthieu died at the age of 100 in 1919; the lakes were named for him in 1924.

The summit of the North Sister can be seen from North Matthieu Lake, peeking over a ridge to the south. To continue to the south lake, follow the trail to the left around the east shore. We noticed that the Forest Service has installed new campsite marking posts in the area for overnighters.

South Matthieu Lake requires another mile of mostly uphill trail. Although this complete hike offers a net elevation loss, this first leg involves a climb of about 800 feet. The trail rejoins the PCT just before reaching the lake. The mountain view from south lake is nothing short of majestic.

Continue on past the south lake on the PCT a short distance to Scott Pass, for a total of about three miles from the trailhead. Take the right fork to stay on the PCT and descend to the south. While there, try to imagine bringing a herd of cattle and several wagons up and down the sides of this very steep pass. That's exactly what Felix Scott, Jr., did at this spot in 1862. Scott Lake, Scott Mountain, Scott Pass, and Scott Trail are all named for him. He was instrumental in pioneering an early east-west route through this area.

From the top of the pass, the PCT follows along, and then over, one of the many lava flows that characterize the fiery genesis of the Cascade landscape. It's another 2.4 miles from the pass to the next junction, where the Scott Trail heads west at a right-angle from the PCT. But first, the PCT skirts around the base of Yapoah Crater. This rather striking cinder cone juts up rather abruptly from the surrounding terrain.

Yapoah Crater stands off by itself, as if making its own statement; and that's how it earned its name.

Yapoah is a Native term that translates as "isolated hill." So, in 1924, that was the name assigned by Professor Edwin T. Hodge, a University of Oregon Professor who was studying the mountains that now constitute the heart of the Three Sisters Wilderness.

Knowing that we were only halfway into our hike, we easily resisted the temptation to take a side trip up a spur trail leading toward the summit of this 6,737-foot "hill." From there, the trail drops abruptly down to a flat, expansive meadow system and the Scott Trail junction, which is marked by a traditional wooden signpost.

We promptly left the PCT and began the 4.7-mile return to the Scott Trail Trailhead, where we had left our other vehicle. At present, drought conditions have turned a beautiful green meadow with gorgeous wildflowers into a cracked, brown cover of dried-up vegetation.

From the trail junction in the meadow, it was less than a mile to another trail that leads to the summit of Four-in-One Cone, a cinder pile built from the contributions of four separate craters atop the cone. We passed on that climb, as well, and continued across the stark volcanic landscape. A little over a half-mile later, we crossed our last lava flow of the day and were plunged into a lush, green forest comprised principally of hemlock.

From here, we resumed our exploration of Felix Scott's historic route. It seemed like rather a long haul back to the trailhead, but the quiet and shaded forest made for pleasant traveling. When, finally, the hemlock gave way to lodgepole pine, we began to hear an occasional passing car, and we knew we were approaching the trailhead at Scott Lake. It was a good day.

This hike is most easily accomplished with two vehicles, leaving one at each of the beginning and ending trailheads. Start by taking the McKenzie Pass Highway (242) west from Sisters to the pass summit; from there, continue west for another 5.6 miles and turn right (west) at the Scott Lake turnoff. There is a sign advising of the approaching turn, but there is an intervening turnoff, as well; so wait until you are abreast of the brown Scott Lake sign before turning off.

Once off the highway, the Scott Trail parking lot is the next immediate right. We left one vehicle here; and, with the other, we returned over the pass to the east side (just past the summit) to the Lava Camp Lake area and the Matthieu Lakes Trailhead. Neither trailhead had signs requiring a parking pass. Free wilderness passes are required.