News and Opinion from Sisters, Oregon
News and Opinion from Sisters, Oregon
The town of Sisters, established in the late 1800s where two wagon roads met, continues to serve as a haven for cross-Cascade explorers drawn by the spirit of the Old West.
Thousands of backpackers, with trail names like Forest and Sasquatch, arrive to rest and replenish as they walk through the wilderness.
Chief Frodo.
On a recent day, Chief Frodo, fresh from a stay at the Best Western Ponderosa Lodge, crossed the street in search of Neosporin and instant coffee for his trek along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT).
"I often feel lost in the world we've constructed, so I need to spend time in the world that was here before," he said, explaining his return to nature.
Chief Frodo is a section hiker tackling the Oregon portion of the PCT.
"There are thru-hikers and section hikers who couldn't finish the entire hike (in previous years)," explained Forest, a young man who attempted the entire 2,653-mile PCT. "I don't think anyone actually thru-hikes all the way on a continuous footpath anymore because of fires, closures, or something."
From left: Forest, Leif, Sasquatch, and Four Note at Sisters Creekside Campground on July 28, 2024.
Forest began his journey near the Mexican border town of Campo, California, on March 19. By July 27, he was camping at Sisters Creekside Campground with fellow hikers Leif, Four Note, and Sasquatch. The group were sharing stories around a picnic table beside Whychus Creek, awaiting a ride to McKenzie Pass for a challenging route past Mt. Washington to Santiam Pass.
"We met at campgrounds. They call it a bubble. You generally hike with people you've seen before," said Forest. "We had a group in the very beginning, especially getting through the Sierra. Other than that, it's sometimes better to hike at your own pace," he explained. "We have group chats to keep in touch."
"I started in Shasta. We're filling in miles from 2022," said Leif, speaking for his partner, who was off enjoying a well-earned hot shower.
"I'm filling in miles from 2023 because it was horrible last year," laughed Sasquatch. "There are closures, so you have to go back and fill in that area, but there's one section I'll never go back to because it's 40 miles of nothing but burn."
"I've already skipped about 200 miles of trail because of fire closures," said Four Note.
"Which is unfortunate because we should have been able to hike all the way through," Forest lamented. "It's frustrating because we started early expecting to avoid fire season, and we still had to skip sections."
"The Diamond Lake, right?" asked Leif.
"Yeah - Diamond Lake, Shelly Fire. I've only had to skip about 100 miles. The AQI has been so bad. It's hard to breathe," said Forest.
"I've been having to wear a mask while hiking," Sasquatch said. "An injury or fire, I think, may stop me at this point."
Most northbound thru-hikers start in mid-to-late April, according to the Pacific Crest Trail Association, which has maintained the PCT since 1977. Forest and Four Note set out a month earlier, hoping to avoid fire closures.
"We did the Sierra in May and it was very snowy. We needed crampons and ice axes to get over most passes," said Forest. "You start at 3 o'clock in the morning. The sun melts the snow, making it slushy and sketchy, so you hit the passes early."
"I feel like everyone says it but it truly is an incredible experience to go from Forester's Pass into the valley below. You've got to give it up to the Sierra," said Four Note.
Like Forest and Four Note, Marieke and Ruurd - trail name Rudy - shipped away their ice gear to lighten their load.
Rudy and Marieke.
Marieke and Rudy of the Netherlands carry a Garmin inReach device to check for fires and trail closures.
"You bring too much in the beginning and then send stuff back," said Marieke. "You think about it every minute, what you can get out of your pack, because it's so heavy."
"Sometimes you have a big water carry, with two or three liters of water," said Rudy.
"In the Sierra, we carried bear canisters, spikes, and ice axes. We're not carrying them anymore, so it's lighter," Marieke said.
The couple started in Tehachapi, California, on May 20. They plan to hike to the PCT's northern end in Manning Provincial Park at the Canadian border, visit Vancouver, then fly to Seattle to meet her dad before heading to Mexico to travel Central and South America.
"We did the whole Sierra, then skipped because of fires," she said.
"We skipped due to two fires, Royal Fire and Shelly Fire, and there was a dead zone because of the Dixie Fire," he said.
"We didn't want to hike through dead forest - 100 miles of it," added Marieke. "It changes every day - whether a trail's open, how the smoke is, how the wind blows."
The couple, visiting from the Netherlands, dropped everything to thru-hike.
"We both quit our jobs and thought, 'Why not? Let's see how far we get,'" Marieke said.
They have hiked over 1,100 miles so far. She's on her third pair of Hokas; he's getting his third pair of shoes in Cascade Locks.
Despite the challenges, the PCT offers many highlights.
"I saw a bear like 10 meters away. I just said, 'Go away!' But it wasn't scary," she said. "They're not grizzlies. They're just looking."
"We like Mammoth Lakes. We had a holiday home with a couch and a separate sleeping room," he said.
"The Top of Whitney and Forester Pass were great," she added. "We've had some nice campsites in Oregon, the best so far."
"We really like this town. It's great. Yesterday, we arrived at Sisters Bakery and they were so enthusiastic. We had a great night at The Barn and the camping is great," raved Rudy.
"Everyone is so hiker-friendly as well. We've got offers for rides - almost six," said Marieke. "And two homes," Rudy said.
"Yeah, they offered, 'You want to stay with us?" Marieke recounted. "It's amazing. We don't have it like this at home."
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